The 5 Belay Device Types Explained

Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. A third device might be picked up years later as an upgrade to a newer or lighter version, or a device you tried of your friends and liked more, or it’s used for hauling gear (like on a big wall or while setting a route).

There are 5 main styles of devices, and we’re here to explain why they’re different and where each style of device really shines (plus any downfalls).

Although we’re going to start talking about more classic tube style devices, that are still readily available and usually the cheapest option at a shop, this is more to set the background for some other styles. Today most climbers will start out with a brake assist belay device, described further below.

Tubers are based on the idea of the original belay plate (shown at the bottom of this post) but with a deeper ‘tube’ made of thinner material for the rope to pass through. Tube devices allow for more control of the rope (vs a plate/figure 8) because their shape creates more points of friction for the rope to contact as it feeds through them.

Later tube model designs have also included v-shaped grooves and various asymmetrical shapes along with “teeth” or ridges, at the rope radius area to give even more options for adding friction.

Most tube devices have 2 slots allowing them to be used to belay with twin and half ropes as well as for rappelling/abseiling two lines. A very small number of manufacturers offer single-slot tubes designed specifically for belaying single pitch routes.

Here’s an example of two very similar devices, with the main the difference being the amount of rope slots:

Warning: Many modern gyms no longer allow the above style of tube devices to be used for belaying since they do not have brake assist functionality.

Another key feature to Guide Mode is that it allows one leader to belay two followers at once. Also, like a standard tube, the two slots allow for rappelling the route.

Guide style belay devices like the Petzl Reverso (seen above and below) are designed for belaying directly from the anchor while belaying from above, guiding, or multi-pitch climbing.

Because of the way the rope feeds through the device when belaying from the anchor, a guide mode device can be used as an auto-block. When used correctly, if the climber fell, the rope would automatically catch the falling climber.

Passive Brake Assist – Tube Style

Passively assisted braking devices tend to be small, simple and lightweight. The operation while belaying will look and feel mostly like that of a tubular belay, with a small twist. When the climber falls or the belayer suddenly brakes and removes slack from the system, the entire device changes its orientation on the rope, forcing tension against the carabiner and effectively blocking the rope from moving; all without any additional moving parts.

The downside is that most of these passive assist brake devices only work with one strand of rope (not designed for standard rappelling). While lead belaying, the assisted braking function can also happen at unexpected times – such as the device assuming there is a fall, when you were just trying to pay out rope quickly for a clipping leader. It can help to spend time on the ground practicing feeding the rope to find where it catches, before you head to the gym or the crag with them.

Mechanical Brake Assist – Moving Parts

Mechanically assisted devices rely on moving parts to change the orientation and friction that the belay device is applying to the rope during braking. Similar to the GriGri, devices like the Trango Vergo and the Madrock Lifeguard employ a moving piece of metal that ‘cams’ upward, pinching the rope whenever it is pulled through the device too quickly, such as when your climber falls.

These devices are often useful in a broader range of situations including lowering and hauling. Their handle also makes it clear how to release the rope to lower a climber (or hauled items).

The added control from this mechanical ‘pinching’ of the rope makes these devices the de facto modern standard when it comes to single pitch cragging and projecting routes, where hanging and jugging on rope happens just as often as giving and taking slack. Their combination of braking, handling and rope control also make mechanical devices ideal for toproping. Many devices in this category can also be used to belay a single climber from above and the mechanical backup makes them a dream when lowering yourself or a heavy load.

Because of the moving parts and added complexity, mechanically assisted devices tend to be heavier and significantly higher priced than all other belay devices. They also require a bit more diligence and practice in understanding their proper care and use for lead climbing, where the belayer is required to both feed out and take up slack smoothly at a moment’s notice.

Similar to the assisted tube, it is easy to accidentally trigger the brake assist functionality and cause the device to lock up at inconvenient times. Practice on the ground, or in other safe situations will always be helpful.

Which Belay Device Should I Buy?

This all depends on where you’ll use it, how you’d like it to function, and your budget. Here are some examples that make a difference:

• Does your gym require a certain style of belay device? (usually this is now one of the biggest deciding factors)
• If you belay for a climber who projects routes (climbing slowly or hanging a lot) a brake assist device will be more ideal
• If you’ll be multi-pitch climbing outdoors often you’ll definitely want a guide mode style tube belay device that you can easily rappel with

As most climbing gyms have tightened their practice of only accepting brake assist belay devices, it is getting harder and harder to only own one device if you’d like to climb indoors and out, single and multi-pitch climbs.

Often a climber may find themselves with two devices. One brake assist for indoors and outdoor single pitch climbing. And one tube style with guide mode device for outdoor multi-pitch climbing.

AND… there is actually an older style of belay device that is still available that’s worth knowing about. We saved it for last as it’s usually only owned by older climbers (who aren’t looking to buy another), or only bought by guides, alpinists, or other multi-pitch climbers looking to save the most weight and who have substantial belaying experience already.

Belay plates are mostly best utilized in Search And Rescue (SAR) situations as well as in the hands of trained mountain guides, as they require a bit of knowledge to make use of every feature they are capable of.

Figure 8’s on the other hand are mostly used by canyoneers, military, and rappelling enthusiasts, and not many rock climbers.

Although the vast majority of climbers shun these older styles of belay devices there are a few folks who swear by them like pro climber Steph Davis. Steph wrote a love letter to her Kong GiGi and summarized the benefits as, “There are no moving parts, nothing to maintain, nothing to break, no mysteries going on. It’s simple, cheap, light, minimalistic and perfect at what it does.” It’s “perfect” for Steph because she’s accustomed to its nuances and quirks and has decades of belaying experience.

Without a fair amount of experience, belay plates and 8’s can be finicky and prone to twisting, bunching and jamming the rope while feeding, especially on heavy weighted rappels so they are not recommended for most climbers.

Warning: Most US gyms don’t allow plates or 8’s to be used for belaying.

A Quick Historical Note From Before the Belay Device

In the far-flung history of technical climbing the belayer would wrap the excess rope around themselves using the friction against their body to control rope feed– this is known as a hip or body belay. For many decades this is the method that climbers would use to protect one another from falling while ascending mountains.

One problem using body parts in a belay is that it can involve a fair amount of danger to the belayer including but not limited to massive rope burns and holes in clothing if the climber fell; one of the reasons for the old mantra, “The leader must not fall.” As climbing got more technical and difficulty grades pushed harder, climbers needed a better means for safely arresting a fall. Along with the advent of the modern harness and the kernmantle rope, the belay device was born.

The earliest manufactured belay devices were simple metal plates with slots or holes in them, made to feed a bight of rope clipped to a carabiner which used friction to slow the feed rate of the rope and allowed for more control over the movement of the rope under weight.

The basic designs and ideas have not changed much since the original Sticht plate of the 1960’s (see image), though some alterations in shape as well as attachment points for hanging from a harness are common.